In Galveston, Tx.
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The Convention and Visitors Bureau
120,000 cycles are expected
at this year's Lone Stone Motorcycle Rally.
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By SIMON
ROMERO
Published:
September 19, 2004
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Michael Stravato for the New York Times
Along the Strand near the docks.
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Michael Stravato for The New York Times
Gaido's, by the seawall and beach.
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alveston, a laid-back city on an
island two miles offshore in the Gulf of Mexico,
has had a sometimes contentious relationship with the waters that wash up
against it. This was where Álvar Núñez
Cabeza de Vaca was
shipwrecked in 1528, the start of an odyssey that he turned into one of the New World's great travelogues.
Much later, in the early years of the 19th century, Jean Laffite
established a pirate camp and haven for privateers on the island called Campeachy. The big blow to Galveston's grandeur, after it
become known as the Ellis Island of the West for serving as an elegant gateway
for European immigrants, was delivered by a hurricane in 1900 that killed
thousands of people.
Galveston, resurrected over the last century,
preserves much of the character that made it Texas's largest and most important city in
the last decades of the 19th century. Guarded by a 17-foot seawall and
connected to the mainland by a hurricane-resistant concrete bridge, it has one
of the state's most striking collections of historic buildings, their limestone
facades standing firm against the salty air.
A port once boastfully described by residents as "the free state of
Galveston," the city is now reinventing itself once more after a decline
that had made it the leading sin city of the Gulf in the 1940's and 50's (with
a wink and nod to New Orleans, of course).
These days Galveston is a trendy weekend and
vacation destination, its restaurants, nightclubs and beaches filled with escapees
from nearby Houston
and other cities, and, increasingly, a port for cruise ships. The balmy
temperatures and festive atmosphere extend into the start of winter, making Galveston a popular
getaway from colder climes.
Events
No burnouts or wheelies are allowed in Galveston's
historic downtown district, the Strand, but
somehow that rule might be violated when motorcycle enthusiasts from around the
country descend on the island Sept. 23 to 26 for the Lone Star Motorcycle
Rally. Many of the top builders of custom motorcycles attend, and 120,000
cycles and 150,000 spectators are expected. Highlights include a downtown pub
crawl and a burnout contest at Lazy Oaks Ranch Outwest
Saloon, 12410 Stewart Road;
(409) 737-5260. Event information is available at (281) 597-8800 or visit www.lonestarrally.com.
The Grand 1894 Opera House, 2020
Postoffice Street, which
survived the 1900 storm, still presents musical performances. On Oct. 1, the Stanislavsky Opera performs "La Traviata."
Other highlights of the season include the cowboy poet Scott Bumgardner on Oct. 24 and Australian tap-dancing group Tap
Dogs, Nov. 19 to 20. Tickets range from $10 to $98. Information: (800) 821-1894
or www.thegrand.com.
Galveston's
Mardi Gras is said to get rowdier each year, but its
annual Oktoberfest is no slumber party, either. The event, held Oct. 9 on the
grounds of the First Evangelical Lutheran Church, 2415 Avenue G, celebrates the
heritage of Galveston's German community with ample steins of beer and servings
of sausages, pork loin and potato salad. Entertainment is provided by Alpenfest, a Texas-based oompah
band that also plays musical handsaws and specializes in yodeling. For information,
call the church at (409) 762-8477.
The Antiques Showcase Weekend, from Oct. 8 to 10, is an opportunity to
review the wares of more than 25 antiques stores. Admission is free. On Oct. 8,
a curator's tour of antiques at the Moody Mansion, 2618 Broadway, (409)
762-7668, one of the city's finest turn-of-the-century structures, is $25, with
hors d'oeuvres and refreshments. Information: (409) 789-3433 or www.galvestonantiques.net.
Real estate fans can get a glimpse of downtown Galveston's renaissance over the last decade
on Oct. 9 and 10 during the Lofts Tour. Those who thought SoHo or Tribeca had
a monopoly on loft-style apartments can get a peek into private apartments in a
half-dozen buildings from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Included in
the tour is the 1874 Mechanic
Street Lofts
Building, at 25th Street and
Mechanic Row, recently restored and with a view of cruise ships. Lofts in the
1905 Texas Building
have panoramic views of Galveston.
Advance tickets are $10 at (888) 939-8680. Tickets can be bought for $12 at all
loft locations.
Sightseeing
Galveston's
beaches can be glimpsed during a stroll along the seawall, a broad waterfront
sidewalk that winds in front of some of the city's landmarks. You can pick up a
map and brochures at the Galveston
Island Visitor
Information Center,
at 2428 Seawall Boulevard;
call (888) 425-4753 or visit www.galveston.com.
If your stroll extends into the evening, drop by the Balinese Room, 2107 Seawall Boulevard,
(409) 762-9696, recently refurbished to evoke its glory days as a 1940's
nightclub when it was operated by the gambling kingpins Sam and Rosario Maceo. Just walking out on the pier leading to the Balinese
Room makes it clear why the Maceos fought so hard to
prevent the Texas Rangers from shutting down their beautifully situated den of
illicit good times. It now contains a dance floor and bar, among other things.
Another hint of Galveston's grandiose past can be found at Ashton Villa,
2328 Broadway, (409) 762-3933, an 1859 Italianate brick mansion built by a New
Yorker who became one of the richest men in Texas, James Moreau Brown. The
villa was made famous by Brown's daughter, Bettie Brown, an aspiring painter
known for her long sojourns in Europe. Guided
tours begin on the hour from noon until 4 p.m. from Labor Day to Memorial Day.
General admission is $6.
Equally evocative of Galveston's place in Texas history is the Ashbel Smith
Building, south of the parking garage
at the corner of 11th Street
and Harborside
Drive on the campus of the University
of Texas Medical Branch at Galveston. The Romanesque
Revival building known as Old Red, buttressed by red granite columns and
sandstone capitals, seems to have survived the 1900 storm because of the sturdy
design of the Galveston
architect Nicholas Clayton. The building now houses university offices; among
the interior features is a staircase made from Texas pine with mahogany banisters. For
information on tours, call (409) 772-4100.
The Rosenberg Library, 2310
Sealy Avenue, (409) 763-8854, which celebrates its
100th anniversary this year, is said to be one of the oldest public libraries
in Texas in
continuous operation. Housed in an imposing building, its Fox Rare Book Room
has incunabula, first editions and historical maps. The library is the legacy
of Henry Rosenberg, an immigrant from Switzerland
who came to Galveston
in the 1840's and worked his way up from dry-goods clerk to prominent banker.
Where to Stay
The Tremont House, 2300 Ship's Mechanic Row, (409) 763-0300, fax (409)
763-1539, www.galveston.com/thetremonthouse,
in the Strand district provides an escape from the gentle bustle of downtown,
with a rooftop terrace and a four-story atrium lobby, with birdcage elevators
and palm trees. Its 119 rooms are laid out with Victorian touches such as brass
beds; other features include towel warmers and windows with ample light from
the lobby. Doubles start at $109.
The Moody Gardens Hotel, 7 Hope Boulevard, (409) 741-8484,
fax (409) 683-4937, www.moodygardenshotel.com,
has 428 rooms, which reflect the hotel's tropical theme. There is a large
outdoor swimming pool. Double rooms range from $149 to $190.
Budget: The Hilton Galveston Island Resort, 5400 Seawall Boulevard, (409)
744-5000, fax (409) 740-2209, covers a range of interests, with a large pool
(with swim-up bar), a Jacuzzi and sauna and - next door at its sister hotel,
the San Luis - tennis courts, a spa and a children's playground. Rooms are
large and comfortable, many decorated with fabrics in vivid tropical colors.
The Hilton, which recently expanded with a new tower, has 240 rooms. Doubles
range from $99 to $149.
Luxury: Built in 1911, the Hotel Galvez, 2024
Seawall Boulevard, (409) 765-7721, fax (409) 765-5623, www.galveston.com/galvez,
was known as the Queen of the Gulf, playing host to such guests as Teddy
Roosevelt, Frank Sinatra and Howard Hughes. The 226 rooms, sedately decorated
with cherrywood armoires and flower arrangements, and
with marble bathrooms, underwent a $9 million renovation in 2001. Many have
stunning views of the gulf. There is a great free-form pool with swim-up bar.
Rates for a standard double are $119 to $179; its seven suites start at $395 a
night.
Where to Eat
It would be hard to find a trendier restaurant in Galveston than Sky Bar, 2107 Postoffice Street,
(409) 621-4759. It serves creative sushi combinations
made from sea bass, tuna and salmon in an ambience that seems to have more in
common with Santa Monica than the nearby Strand district of Victorian splendor. The restaurant is
open for dinner Tuesday to Sunday, lunch Tuesday to Friday. The tab for two
with sake will come to about $75.
The Mod Coffee and Tea House, 2126 Postoffice
Street, (409) 765-5659, www.modcoffee.com,
combines informal charm with excellent food at affordable prices. Snacks
include homemade lemon bars and scones with crème fraîche.
There is heartier fare, including wraps and salads. Wash it down with anything
from a raspberry soda to vanilla bean espresso to a glass of Guinness or red
wine. Lunch for two with beer is about $17. Open daily for breakfast, lunch and
dinner.
Cheerful and bright, the Saltwater Grill, 2017 Postoffice Street,
(409) 762-3474, serves some of Galveston's
best seafood, with a pan-Asian touch, such as yellowfin
tuna over soba noodles, or pasta with sweet Dungeness crab. Dinner for two with
wine costs $90. Open weekdays for lunch and dinner, weekends
dinner only.
Mosquito Café, 628 14th Street,
(409) 763-1010, welcomes diners to a casual setting with a choice of an outdoor
patio or high-ceilinged dining room. Specialties include an Asian beef bowl
prepared with tamari sesame dressing, a melted-Brie sandwich, Southwest
green-chili burger and spinach pasta. Open for breakfast and lunch daily, and
for dinner Thursday through Saturday. Dinner for two with beer is about $40.
Rudy and Paco, 2028 Postoffice Street,
(409) 762-3696, specializes in steak and seafood with a Latin American flair,
such as empanadas mixtas (turnovers with meat, shrimp
or chicken) and fish tacos. The white tablecloths and excellent service add
sophistication to this culinary genre. Open for lunch and dinner weekdays;
dinner only Saturday. Dinner for two with wine is $105.
At Gaido's, 3802 Seawall Boulevard, (409) 762-9625,
you will get a look at the history of dining out in Galveston. S. J. Gaido
opened the restaurant in 1911; four generations later, his family is still
operating it, serving such fare as stuffed snapper, pompano, shrimp bisque,
steaks, pork chops and sumptuously prepared oysters. The ambience is old-school
but relaxed, with white tablecloths. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Dinner
for two with wine comes to about $110.
SIMON ROMERO reports for The
Times from Houston.
